Kathmandu
Para 1.. Vikram Seth has a pronounced wanderlust that has taken him to Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. His uncle and nephew have accompanied him. He has checked into a relatively affordable hotel. After a long night’s sleep, he has gone to visit two famous temples which is revered by both Hindus and Buddhists.
Part 2 .. ‘The Pashupatinath Temple is out of bounds for non-Hindus,’ says a signboard outside. There is a lot of din and bustle in the temple compound. Tourists, priests, devotees, vendors, hawkers, pigeons, cows and even dogs mingled with each other in that limited space. Worshippers are convinced that they can draw God’s attention to them only through the proper channel – the priests. So, they jostle with one another to get near the priests, who are vastly outnumbered by the visitors. The author and his two companions offer a few flowers to the deity. At this time, a princess of the royal household makes her appearance there. Everyone bows to her and makes way for her willingly. At the main gate, a different story unfolds. A group of saffron-clad devotees of western origin coax the guards to let them in, proclaiming their Hindu faith. Since the temple is out of bounds for non-Hindus, the guards refuse to accede to their requests. The guards feel white-skinned people can’t be ‘genuine’ Hindus.
Around this time, two monkeys get into a duel. One jumps on to the Shivalinga and flees to the nearby Bagmati river for safety. The river bank offers a diverse view. A corpse was being cremated, a washerwoman was cleaning clothes and a few boys were bathing in the river water. From a balcony close to the river, some one throws a basket of flowers and leaves into the river. Half portion of a small shrine stands on a stone platform on the edge of the river. It is believed that if and when it emerges fully, the goddess inside will escape marking the end of the Kaliyug.
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